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Saturday, May 7, 2011

Day 39 - Gold star for Florida

This is going to be a short post, basically because things went my way today. Winds, roads, route, pretty much everything went to plan. I was into the motel well before 17:00, and whilst the countryside around here was not stunning it was still decent riding country. Even the rolling hills didn't seem to hassle me too much today.

Another dross motel
The first advantage of the day was not really of my choosing. I was out on the road just after dawn kind of by accident. Just after 04:00 I was woken by what sounded like another yet domestic in the next door motel room (which unfortunately has happened before). It was only when the banging and crashing started that I realised this was not spousal abuse I was witness to but the other form of domestic activity that involves banging, crashing and screaming.

I have no idea how large the couple were, but from the elephantine love making noises and shudders each time they appeared to be trying to hurl each other through the dry wall into my room, I'd hazard sizable. Thankfully it was all over almost as soon as it started, but by that time I was wide awake and little traumatised. 05:30 came and I just thought sod it, got up, got ready and left.

The key today was the roads. Florida wins the prize as by far and away the most bike friendly state. In fact I'd go as far to say it beats even France as the most bike friendly place I've ever ridden. Having followed bike routes or designated lanes all the way from the Gulf Coast in Alabama, they basically never stopped all day, for another full 90 miles.

Weird tan lines
First Pensacola may be the most cycle friendly city on Earth, bar Amsterdam. Admittedly I was travelling early on a Saturday which is the best time of the week to ride, because no ones' up, but it was still very impressive. Then it was cycle lanes around the scenic bay's edge across the bluffs, and up into the back country off the coast. Whilst the 10 miles on full cycle tracks was nothing on Louisiana, it was the fact that every road all day had a cycle lane that was clear, maintained and properly marked that was so impressive. I know this is probably boring as hell to read, but for me this was a revelation. Rather than 10 miles here or there of peace, it was peaceful all day, with out exception.

Once off the coast, the Florida towns become rapidly more tired and sleepy. Whilst I'm not sure there is much to recommend you leaving the coast in Panhandle to visit these areas, they were perfectly decent farming communities surrounded by pine forests, that made the whole journey smell like a lavatory in a top end hotel. I passed a few cars with English or Scottish flags on, which I guess makes sense given the expat community in Florida.

Not sure they understood why I was waving so manically at them. It's strange why I'm so desperate to talk to them. In 99.9% of cases Americans I've met have been helpful, kind, open, friendly, interested, you name it, if it's positive they've been it. In fact it's a huge jolt when someone's crabby with you, because it's so rare. I guess just after a few weeks I just want a tiny bit of home banter, and to be understood when I ask for water - which is by far and away the word I must have repeated the most. Made me realise our pronunciation "Wor-teh" is actually wrong.

So that's it, I'm locked in my room trying to avoid a female guest who clearly with a serious anxiety problem and keeps wanting to talk to me, right in my person space. I slightly ashamed to admit it, but I've got a little intolerant of such incidents, but after the 35 motel you do get a little tired of always having to talk to local nutter, who always makes a beeline for you because you're dressed differently. I've rather taken to politely smiling and legging it, which to be fair, is what everyone else is doing.

Route - West Pensacola - Penscola downtown - Pace - Milton - Crestview - DeFuniak Springs

Breakfast - Frosties, and 2 bagels at the motel
Snacks - Pizza was all that was on offer in the town at lunch, not feeling like that I just had a pack of chive crisps, a milkshake and a 1/4 of a pack of some revolting pork crisp things, not recommended.
 Supper - Seafood buffet at McLain's Family Steak House, DeFuniak Springs. Was hungry and this was next door, it was delicious. Given it was a buffet I'm not sure I can be bothered to type out all I ate, but there was good reason the customer base was sizable, but when it tastes this good, who the hell's counting.

Friday, May 6, 2011

Day 38 - Bring me the Sunshine State

Hitting the Coast on Wednesday felt amazing, cruising into Florida yesterday felt even better. In fact, four states in three days has felt really very satisfying. Crossing state lines just feels like such an achievement. And whilst it won't be like this again till right at the end, with 8 states and D.C. to get through in 18 or 19 days there should be a lot more photos like the above coming soon.

However it wasn't all plain sailing to Florida. The first 3 hours yesterday morning was an unpleasant slog through downtown Mobile, up round the docks and railway sidings to the only crossing at the top of the bay that's not a tunnel, and hence open to bikes. There was nothing particularly wrong with Mobile, it's a leafy town with grand old South villas, and the traffic was nothing out the ordinary, it's just always a mentally exhausting chore getting through cities.

This is not remotely a US only issue, and all cities here are been significantly more biker friendly than London (In fact everyone out here is shocked by the cycling stats, and bile and violence directed at London cyclists, when I tell them. Most guys in the cycle shops seem to have seen the clips from London cyclists head cams of guys getting attacked - they are universally shocked and want to know if it's true. Guess it must've been on the news here).

The problem is you just don't know the town, or where the dangers are, or where to look on crossings, or a thousand other things you get to know in your home city, and all this whilst you're navigating. It's tiring and can be frustratingly slow. It's also a shame because you can't fully appreciate the town or city centres.

However, ship yards, rail sidings and city behind me it was just under a 10 mile stretch over bridges where groups of prisoners in work gangs cleaning the shoulder were universally friendly, and then a long ride down the East side of the Mobile Bay, a wiggle cross country to the Alabama Gulf Coast, then a long 30 mile stretch along the Gulf Coast into Florida and onto Pensacola.

Along the Bay took me through some of the most chic neighbourhoods to date. Whilst the road was set back from the sea, you could see through to the water past beautiful gardens and mostly understated but seriously desirable homes. This was very sophisticated money, and the villages I past through were proper stylish old money. That said, I found the one BBQ joint filled with cops and bad language, so I was happy as pie. The riding was also pleasant, with some bike paths, and very considerate drivers.

This continued through the quite cut in land, but ended abruptly when I hit the edge of Gulf Shores and the Gulf Coast. My heart sank, with 30 miles to go through built up areas, and by then running late, the prospect of more slow mental exhausting driving was grim. But I must've done something right in my life.

Literally on hitting the Gulf Coast I picked up a designated cycle route beside the road, which continued almost unbroken to my motel 30 miles later. And to add to the good times the wind roared up behind me. The coast line along the bottom here is more cheap and cheerful than what I'd seen earlier, but it's booming in this area. The huge tower blocks onto the beach are not my idea of a good time, but people looked happy and relaxed, so what does it matter. As you hit Florida it rapidly becomes noticeably military, with the huge Navy base to the West of the Pensacola, but the place is buzzing and busy, and along the coast strip of this city very pleasant.

Unfortunately to be near a bike shop I've been staying in a ropier end of town, with the usual strip of chain restaurants and motels that make for depressing viewing. Maybe because I know there is a full on Caribbean beach a few miles away it makes it all the grimmer, but such is the way.

Today has been a chores day. A visit to the very helpful guy in the local bike shop (Big Boy Bicycles) was a enjoyable hour and half with the owner who tuned the bike up for free, but he was slightly lacking supplies so I had to bike right across town to another shop to get a gear cassettes attached and buy yet another rear tyre, as a second one has worn through. As a result everything else (laundry, route planning, this, etc) has been rushed.

It's an interesting part of this whole exercise, that the tiring bit is not really the cycling, it's all the other stuff. It's the getting to bike shops, worrying about routes, researching where to stay, worrying about twinges in your knees, getting stuff fixed or clean, you name it. That is what's tiring, never really kicking back, even on the days you are not cycling. The actually riding just is what it is, sometimes it's glorious, sometimes it's frightening, mostly it's somewhere in between. It doesn't help being in motels all the time, they're a great institution, but boy do you get bored of them after a while.

Any way, less complaining from the git on leave. Tomorrow I start heading North East in earnest, It should be 4 to 5 days to the Atlantic, then 12 or so days up the coast to New York. Getting there suddenly feels very real, which is exciting. I can't wait to get through the next 9 days or so, and then I'll be right up in that East Coast cluster of cities which will be awesome.

Route - Mobile - Dauphne - Fairhope - Magnolia Springs - Gulf Shores - Pensacola

Thursday 5 May
Breakfast - Cheerios, 2 bagels and an apple in the motel
Lunch - Pulled pork sandwich - Ben's Jr. BBQ, Fairhope. The place was packed with cops, and the place looked like it hadn't had a lick of paint since 1975, but it was justifiably packed, this was a good sandwich, although weirdly the coke came in jam jars.
Supper - Chinese buffet - Hong Kong Buffet, Pensacola. Literally the only place that is not a chain round here. It was a Chinese buffet in a room with no windows and only half the lights on, on the edge of a naval base. A pretty rough experience all round.

Friday 6 May
Breakfast - Super All-Star Breakfast - The Waffle House. A waffle, 2 eggs, toast, and a hash brown, washed down with coffee. Look, it was tasty, and the place had the all American feel, but I'm now craving a full English like nothing else, even went online to research them in New York.
Lunch - Pulled Pork sandwich - King's Bar-B-Q. Tired looking place next to the bike shop as they looked over my bike, but was a good sandwich. There is good Bar-B-Q down here, and it's all less full on than Bodeans in London.
Supper - Chicken sandwich and cookie - Subway. Subway sandwich, not much to report.

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Day 37 - Coasting along the Gulf

When setting off from LA the thought of getting to the Gulf of Mexico frankly seemed like a silly pipe dream. In fact in some of the darker moments in Arizona and West Texas I feared I might have to call the whole thing off short and make the Gulf my final destination. For these reasons today felt really special. I've hit target number one, now the Atlantic and New York City.

I'm so glad I cut yesterday short. It was only 2 miles from the motel to the causeway out over Bay St Louis, but in the fresh morning sunshine it was so much more spectacular than it would've been in the rain and cold last night. In fact, for four hours from the first causeway to second at Biloxi it was spectacular, special and awesome riding. There's a bike route set back from road, with the sea stretching out to the south and the beautiful coastal homes in the palms to the north.

With no fear of traffic I was back on the Ipod. If Graceland was special in the Mississippi Delta, then Toots and the Maytals' greatest hits was the perfect soundtrack to the Gulf shore front. Amazingly I'm still on highway 90. I first picked us this road just east of LA, and I've been on or just off it or the I-10 the whole route.

Bike over the Gulf
These two really are some of the great roads of the world, truly transcontinental, but there is something appealing about the 90 in that it goes from huge 6 lane freeway at points, down to wind country by-way often in the space of a mile or two. I'll leave it at that, because I'm sure none of you want me to get emotional about roads, but I think it's amazing.

There were hassles to the ride, especially the wind whipping off the sea in vicious gusts, but this was a special special morning. After mini-Vegas at Biloxi, it was over the causeways for lunch in ship building port of Pascagoula. I decided on the Waffle House, firstly because I'd passed a staggering 10 in the morning, and secondly because for a fast food chain it has such outdated styling I thought it deserved respect. It doesn't.

The food was really dull fair, but the rolling on masse free for all conversation involving literally everyone in the cafe was a hell of thing to listen to. It covered a remarkable breath of topics from Bin Laden, to gay marriage, to who had divorced who in town, all presided over by the campest male cook. My favorite moment was when he felt he'd timed making the definitive point in the gay marriage debate just as his shift finished; he whipped off his apron and stormed out carrying his pink handbag embossed with Glee symbols and phrases over his shoulder. Virtually fell off my stool laughing, but what a champ.

After a nasty little 10 miles on busy roads it all calmed down as I hit Alabama, and a lovely 20 mile cruise through the rolling hills. After 6 days of dead flat, in a weird way, it's nice to see a change, and it's really beautiful round here. In fact I was so chilled, I got my timings wrong and hit the edge of town as the sun was starting to lower, which it does fast round here. So rather than push into downtown in the dusk or dark, which out here can be a pretty mixed experience, I've stopped on the edge of town. Well that's the official story, I have to confess the motel sign (above) rather caught my attention as well.

Route - Bay St Louis - Gulfport - Biloxi - Pascagoula - Grand Bay - Mobile

Breakfast - Fruit Loops in the motel. As revolting as they sound, went to find something else to eat, but no joy, so wound up with a honey bun in the petrol station...horrible. Bay St Louis was a real culinary low point, especially after the joys of Louisiana.
Lunch - Chicken sandwich - Waffle House, Pascagoula. Worth the $5 for the banter alone, if not the food.
Supper - Burger and Fried pickles - Hooters, Mobile. Pretty dross food, but worth it. This is the 3rd time I've been to the franchise, and every time I can't quite believe it exists, or more amazingly that guys bring their wives/girlfriends on dates here. It really is just too funny, bad but hilarious, and with 2 universities in town I feel I'm being noble by helping students finance their studies (Note for the older readership: If, on the off chance, you're not familiar with the Hooters franchise it's less seedy than it sounds, but all the waitresses do wear orange hotpants and rather over tight tops, if that's not an oxymoron. It's tagline is "Delightfully tacky, yet unrefined," sums it up).

One final note: You literally can't make this up, I'm writing this in the Hooters in Mobile, AL, because their wi-fi kicks the motel's, and on the radio they've got Lynyrd Skynyrd blaring out. Sometimes life is just genius.......Wait scratch that, sure Sweet Home Alabama's got the geographical cache, but Bruce Springsteen's Born to Run has just come on. Time's literally couldn't get better.

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Day 36 - Mississippi's Freezing

Today's been a great day. Tiring at over 115 miles, overcast with the odd light shower, and properly cold as the wind roars down from the North, but it's been awesome. Happy and productive.

The one hiccup of the day was out the way early. Much of the first three or four hours out through the final suburbs of Baton Rouge was on narrow roads. Unfortunately I fully take back what I said about Louisiana drivers. There is the same small minority of tools and choppers who want to run you off the road here too.

I hold particularly special level of contempt for the few cars that ran me off the road, only for me to look up as I struggled in the dirt to see some christian bumper or back window sticker disappearing into the distance. It strikes me as repugnantly hypocritical to drive around with such ostentatious declarations of faith, whilst so proactively failing to live by some of the key tenets of that same faith you're advertising.

Although, as general rule, drivers with such stickers have been some of the kindest  on the road. And whilst I find the shear volume and newness the churches round here surprising, I've actually been rather impressed with what they seem to be doing in the community. I'm sure there are some loons, but the vast majority look like solid set ups.


But this is an aside, basically the first 50 odd miles was fairly dull and functional riding, with a few hassles. That changed at Covington, a cool little town built in New Orleans style with a thriving and rather chic town centre. After a awesome lunch I was straight on Tammany Trace bike route. A rail trail it follows the old railroad for 35 miles to just short of the Gulf Coast.

It was the most pleasurable riding to date. For the first time on the whole trip I plugged into my iphone, and to the awesome soundtrack of Paul Simon's Graceland cruised along well maintained tracks, through the pine forests and swamps, unhassled by trucks, debris or noise. I'd recommend the experience with that soundtrack to anyone. Throw in some bangers like You've Got the Dirtee Love by Dizzee at the end of the trail and I was flying by the time I hit the road again as Slidell. And I'd made great time with the wind behind me.


It's one of the big shames of the trip that I can't have a soundtrack more often, but it really doesn't seem wise. Even on the safer roads, it is regularly my hearing that's the key factor in keeping me out of trouble. I just don't fancy getting pummelled by some 18 wheeler, because I was too busy belting out Tina's cover of Proud Mary to hear the truck horn.

Having arrive in Slidell in good time, I decided to push on 30 miles through the swamp and over into the state of Mississippi. It was a interesting little leg. Many of the scattered houses in the swamp are built on 10 to 15 feet high stilts, as much of the land lies under sea level. Whilst I would've taken a picture, those people I met round there seemed decent enough, but I'm pretty sure would not have taken kindly to having their home photographed.

Plus shotgun pellets 
Once in Mississippi I had to stop myself getting excited by road signs. First the welcome sign, then a NASA sign stating I was in a rocket testing area, and finally the sign for White's Bayou, complete with multiple small dents from were someone had clearly let off a shotgun round at the sign, was more than enough. On the final sign given certain aspects of local history, I think it's safe to say the shooting was not a slight on my family or I.

Waveland/Bay St Louis are basically just a huge long strip of rather desolate shops and fast food joints, with a sad air seaside resorts  often have. Whilst I'm excited that I can smell the sea, even though I've not seen it, the weather has taken a turn for the worst, and it's dark, cold and wet outside. For the first time on the trips I've actually put the heating on in my motel room. I've also ordered in a pizza, as there is literally nothing for a mile, bar Wendys. Safe to say I won't be sad to leave tomorrow.


Route - Denham Springs - Hammond - Covington - Mandeville - Slidell - Waveland - Bay St Louis

Breakfast - Cherrios, 2 bagels and an apple at the motel. Bin Laden still a top topic over breakfast - The construction workers were very keen to fill me in and act out the Navy Seals "double tap" approach to killing.
Lunch - Chicken salad sandwich and Iced tea - St John cafe, Covington. Funky little cafe, delicious home made sandwich. All round a good lunch.
Snacks - Cliff bar, Strawberry milkshake, and a small chips at Wendys on arrival (I was exhausted and hungry, too tempting next door).
Supper - Meatzza Feast Dominos Pizza, in the hotel room. Grim little experience.

Monday, May 2, 2011

Just Giving page - MS Trust

Below is the Just Giving page link:

http://www.justgiving.com/wwhiteuscoasttocoast

 I’m going to pop this post at the top every few days, as I’m aware people come to the blog only every few days, and would be great to capture everyone who may like to donate, although I’m realistic many of you have multiple demands on your generosity.
For those who have generously donated already, thank you very much. Your donation will go towards the great work the MS Trust does raising awareness of MS and funding medical training and research around MS.

Day 35 - East of the Mississippi

Not the Mississippi

Today’s post is supposed to come with lots of exciting pictures of me crossing the Mississippi. This is not the case for reasons that have taken yet more years off my life, but for most of today it was a good day. 
Woke up to the news that Bin Laden has two bullets in his head at the bottom of the Indian Ocean, which was nice. It certainly livened up the motel breakfast room, which was a rare pleasure. General opinion was chest thumpingly proud, and with good reason. But I said no religion or politics on this thing, so seeing as this crosses both lines, I’ll leave it at that.
The ride to the Mississippi was cracking. Flat solid roads that rise up periodically on stilts over the Bayous and swamps. The land's rich green in all directions, and with thick forests on all sides the wind’s sting was kept at bay, even if it brought the loud and gritty logging trucks too. The weather was cooler and less humid. And it was easily my most comfortable sorts of roads; dual carriageways with wide shoulders and little traffic, so everyone gives you a wide berth even though you are protected behind the rumble strips. 
It was dream riding really, and even the 3 miles or so on an old causeway with no shoulder was not that scary. First traffic was light so with my naff helmet mirror is was easy to spot cars and trucks coming. Then 500m in a guy just rode right up behind me with his hazard lights on, and basically gave me an escort the whole distance. At the other end he gave me a cheerful toot and a peace sign, and was off on his way. He looked like a business man in a decent SUV so I’m sure he had better things to do, but he was just a decent dude. Not sure if it’s a southern thing, or a Louisiana thing, but there is a lot of this kind of behaviour round here.
After a fantastic Cajun lunch I suddenly realised I was about to cross the Mississippi. I have no idea how that fact slipped my planning for the day, but I pushed on excited.....if only I’d known. 

The crossing at Baton Rouge looks cool, there is a huge railway suspension bridge with the roads hugging either side. However it wasn’t till I was a good way up the very steep on ramp that I realised the shoulder didn’t just narrow it disappeared, as the dual carriageway narrowed too, which was even more noticeable as traffic increased significantly on the bridge. This is one of only 3 crossings in the area, so it makes sense. 

Not that this is going to keep my mother happy but I guess I just thought bugger it, if today’s my day “over the Mississippi” has a ring. It was an exhausting heart burstingly terrifying 3-4 minutes, and again not something I ever plan on repeating. When I did get a chance to look out over the river it looked magnificent, if blurred as sweat poured into my eyes.
Unfortunately things did not improve the other side. First I had to ride on so far to find a genuinely safe spot that the bridge was obscured, hence I have no photo record of this milestone. Then there's Baton Rouge. The advice available online is pretty clear, don’t ride in Baton Rouge, I’d like to add my voice. It’s up there with London for the toughest cycling city on earth. 
The problem here though is unique. When Katrina hit, hundreds of thousands of people were evacuated here, many never left. As a result the city is bursting at the seems. The traffic is that of a city many times larger than what's here. There is a huge project building roads but this is still a long way off, and instead the roads are insanely clogged, right out to Denham Springs were I’m staying. Clogged with tetchy drivers who were pushing to get home in rush hour, and the majority of who were on their phones. I’m really no advocate of health and safety as a general rule, but the ban in the UK is very bright.
Denham Springs is a decent enough little town, but I’m having the same problem here that I’ve had across Louisiana, and I’m embarrassed to say was most acute in the very poor neighbourhoods I passed through in Baton Rouge, the accent is virtually impenetrable. I actually rate my ability to tune into accents, but the accent down here is just so full on, that on more than one occasion I’ve just been left smiling inanely in the hope that was the correct response. 

As this usually happens when I’m wearing a huge white bike helmet plus mirror, aviators, a fluorescent waistcoat saying Lehman Brothers, and have both knees bandaged, they probably assume the manic grinning is part of a wider mental breakdown. After the efforts on the Mississippi they may be right.
Route - Eunice - Krotz Spring - Baton Rouge - Denham Springs

Breakfast - Rice Crispies, 2 bagels and an apple in Motel.
Lunch - Cajun baked Chicken, rice, beans and salad - Willie B’s, Krots Spring. Kind of lunch food you pray for. Delicious, full of energy and not a drop of frying oil. Spot on.
Supper - Shrimp Ettoufeh - Don’s Seafood. Not the best meal I’ve had in Louisiana, but still good. For the first time in a while had pudding, now need to lie down and sleep off what looked like half a Strawberry cheesecake.

Sunday, May 1, 2011

Day 34 - Armadillo graveyard

 There is not a whole lot to report about the actual ride today, bar the wind whipping in land off the Gulf of Mexico it was great day. It was flat as a pancake, the towns and villages you pass through were all decent and well supplied, and of greatest relief after Texas the roads were almost universally high quality. It was green, lush and forested countryside, occasionally broken up by swamps, crawfish ponds and less idyllicly onshore processing and storage facilities for the off shore oil drilling (which rather appeals to a natural male fascination I have with big shiny machines).

There is a real change this side of the state line. Superficially the Texas stars on the front of homes have changed for the fleur de leis, harking back to the french roots of this state, but it's the change in attitude that's more profound. The Texan approach to life is awesome and has it's place, but it's great to be somewhere so much more laid back. People give you a wider birth on the roads, and sometimes stop just to find out what you are up to, and where you are headed. It's a kind of proactive niceness, as opposed to reactive approach encountered in the West.

The biggest change though is the food. I guess it's no surprise given this is Cajun country, and this is not to say Texas had some serious culinary high points, but for the first time on my trip, it seems every small town or village is bursting with unchained little cafes and restaurants. Not all Cajun, but every time I've stopped to eat here (usually having done no research whatsoever) it's been superb.

In fact the only blip on the day was the vast quantity of armadillos dead on the road. It's one of the least pleasant aspects of the whole ride, but you do come across road kill and it's attendant stench at least every mile. I've seen half Noah's ark of reptiles and animals wild and domestic in various states of decay along the road from LA, but today was something else. I lost count of the amount of armadillos I saw flattened on the road mile after mile. I guess they just aren't fast enough, but seems a shame as they look cool. Guess they are soft on the outside after all.

So that's it for today's riding. I've been asked a number how far I've travelled. Unfortunately I don't have an exact figure, but it must be either just under or just over 2000 miles, and there are roughly 1800 to go.

The reason for the inaccuracy is unfortunately half my fault for being a Luddite and half the UK's hybrid approach to distance education. I'm sure there is a way to track you total distance on the GPS device, but I've never worked out how to set it, and it now seems a little late in the day. However even if I did set it up there is no guarantee I'd get it right either.

As, like all Brits my age, I have a feeling for metres and miles, but not feet or kilometres. The GPS has no metres and miles option, I had to go fully metric as I don't understand feet outside of my height. In fact a vast amount of my day is spent working out distances from kilometres on the GPS to miles to size up the challenge ahead.

This is not to say I'm not using technology. In fact, one of the most surprising parts of this trip for me has been how you can use technology. I'm on the macbook every night scoping out routes, the GPS guides me in perfectly to locations almost every time, I have a satellite phone like device that can call up help to my GPS co-ordinates, often I reroute or research a change to the plan on the wi-fi in a McDonalds (always worth the small coffee for free wi-fi) whilst out on the road, etc etc.

It's amazing. It doesn't pump the pedals every day, or fight off farm boys who drive you into the ditches, or take away the constant pressure about a 100 silly things that batter you every day, or all the other things that make this a tough challenge, but the availablity to information, the variety of ways and places you can access that information, and your ability to stay in touch back home are so far advanced from where they were 5 years ago even it's quite something.

Route - Sulphur - Westlake - Kinder - Eunice

Breakfast - Cherrios, 2 bagels and an apple at the motel
Lunch - Catfish, salad and baked potato - Roy' Catfish Hut, Kinder. Delicious, proper home-cooked style food. It was a big feed though, even though I only had the small plate. Goodness knows what the large plate looks like.
Supper - Shrimp Quesadias - Hacienda Mexican Food, Eunice. Best Mexican food I've had so far, and right next to the motel. Perfect.