For months now "getting east of Uvalde" has been the focus. In fact, in strange way, because the problems prior to the town were more immediate to me, it's been more of a goal than NYC up till now. Hours staring at Google maps had given Uvalde a mythical place in my mind. It was were the world gets green and towns appear every few miles, not every few hours. It was were the mountains and the deserts stop, and where just the cycling becomes the toughest part, rather than weather or geography.
What I had not anticipated was "West of Uvalde" was tough, really tough. After a noisy night in Comstock's rather basic motel, things didn't get easier. In fact the three days to get to the San Antonio and the Sheraton Gunter Hotel was divided exactly in two by Uvalde. The first day and a half was as close as I've got so far to throwing in the towel, and the second has restored my confidence.
I guess I thought after the horror day in the desert stuff would just get better instantly, which of course it didn't. In fact the constantly rolling hills, whilst horrendous were really only the part of the horror. In fact the riding conditions were so dreadful I can only really give you facts and an image to help you, as I'm out of adjectives.
The facts are as follows: Humidity constantly hung around 70-80%; the temperature started daily around 75-80F, rapidly rising to 95-100F (in fact as the local weather kept unhelpfully reminding me "it's like mid-July weather," which is why I'm in Texas in April, best laid plans and all that); the wind blew 15-20mph straight in my face, gusting up over 30mph at times; and the icing on the cake, the roads were consistently what is know as "3rd grade tarmac," which basically means it has no top surface. In fact the roads were so bad it stripped my brand new back tyre bare of it's rubber (see photo right). I didn't even know this was possible.For a day an a half it was like sitting on a exercise bike, on top of a washing machine on spin, in sauna, under 5 studio lights 3 inches from you face, in a wind tunnel. Of course were you to sit on exercise bike, on a washing machine, in a sauna, under studio lights, in a wind tunnel, back home people would probably advise you take some time at the Priory to cool off. Strange how people are impressed when it's "for a challenge."
Unfortunately Del Rio and Brackeville, which were the only two towns on route, were frankly pretty uninspiring. Del Rio has to have possibly the highest fast food joint per head stats in the world, comprising as it did of basically one long strip of fast food drive thrus. Bracketville on the other hand was a strange little town bolted onto the old army camp at Fort Clarke Springs. To be fair the guys in the old barracks were trying hard to make into a tourist attraction and a working new town, and the motel itself was on the old base, but there is only so much you can do, and it basically still felt like what it was, an ex-army camp. I ashamed, to say I was glad to move on.The one high point was I finally got to go through one of the border patrol checks, and the experience did not disappoint. I made the mistake of asking if I could use their loos before they checked my passport, as it was deep in my panniers, and I was bursting for a pee. I was promptly surrounded by four officers, three who all rather menacingly kept their right hands on their holstered guns, whilst the forth watched over my rummage through the bags. There was a palpable disappointment when I produced a correctly stamped British passport. I rapidly used one of the loos in their cells, and hurried off, without pointing out the front page of our passports clearly states her "Britannic Majesty" will come down like a ton of bricks on anyone not allowing the "bearer to pass freely without let or hindrance."
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| Rapidly becoming their best customer |
I've had to stop in San Antonio for a day for two reasons. Firstly to get a new tyre to replace my baldie and to rest my knees which are now starting to ache unpleasantly at the end of days. San Antonio is a decent city, even if I'd rather be in South Cornwall, seeing as it's Easter. I got a great rate in the decent Sheraton right in the middle of downtown, which is satisfying. Whilst compact, the city has made a solid effort at making it feel busy and friendly, no mean feat with the sprawl of suburbs sucking the life out of many city centres here.
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| The Alamo |
It's maybe a little touristy for my liking, a little too much Madam Tussards and a little too many fat people with bum bags eating a the Hard Rock Cafe, but this is me being mean spirited. It's fun and the riverside area is buzzing testament to a successful urban renewal programme. I remembered to go a have a look at the Alamo (a little historical joke for any students of American history), but bar that I've taken it very easy today, lots of rest, Easter calls home, and a visit to the local church for their Easter service.
So that's it, finally I'm up to date. I hit the road again first thing tomorrow, but it is only a short hop over to Houston for the next stop. Which leaves me with just one finaly piece of advice: Don't wear red esperdrills to a steak house in rural Texas, even if your flip flops are broken. The looks I got from the locals did not say "how natty even if the style is two season's old" they more conveyed agressive suspicions about interests in my private life. An unnerving experience all round, even if some of the looks came from the elephantine individuals at the all you can eat buffet bar, who looked like they could be easily outrun.
Route - Comstock - Del Rio - Uvalde - Hondo - San AntonioThursday 21 April
Breakfast - Banana, apple and cliff bar. Nowhere was open in Comstock, so that was the only option.
Lunch - Beef salad sandwich - Subway - Have discovered this is the best place to eat lunch if fast food chains are the sole option. You choose what goes in the sandwich and you can request the half size sandwich, although the servers make every attempt to make you buy more: "Would you not prefer a foot long, sir?" "Is that really all, sir?" "Do you want chips with that sir?" It's relentless.
Supper - Grilled chicken sandwich and Strawberry Milkshake - Burger and Shake, Bracketville - Yup that really was the name. It was the best of very slim pickings.
Friday 22 April
Breakfast - Egg muffin, powerade and banana - Petrol station, Bracketville. A depressing start to the day.
Lunch - Chicken salad sandwich - Subway, Uvalde.Supper - 8oz Sirlon - Hudson Brothers Steakhouse, Hondo. Good food, although for the reasons stated above, slightly ruined by the fear I was going to get lynched for my sartorial choices.
Saturday 23 April
Breakfast - Cornflakes, waffle and an apple at the Motel
Lunch - Tuna sandwich - Shabby looking deli in San Antonio
Supper - Grilled Chicken sandwich and cesar salad - Room service. Turns out the cesar salad was a "full meal" and the chicken came in fried bread, defeating the whole healthy idea.
Sunday 24 April
Breakfast - Dissappointing assortment from the Hotel buffet.
Lunch - Mexican Salmon, rice and broccoli - Iron Catus, San Antonio. Delicious and healthy, spot on.
Supper - Asian Salad from Room Service. Most places are shut up because it's Easter, so I figured relax in the hotel.
