Day 36 - Mississippi's Freezing

Today's been a great day. Tiring at over 115 miles, overcast with the odd light shower, and properly cold as the wind roars down from the North, but it's been awesome. Happy and productive.

The one hiccup of the day was out the way early. Much of the first three or four hours out through the final suburbs of Baton Rouge was on narrow roads. Unfortunately I fully take back what I said about Louisiana drivers. There is the same small minority of tools and choppers who want to run you off the road here too.

I hold particularly special level of contempt for the few cars that ran me off the road, only for me to look up as I struggled in the dirt to see some christian bumper or back window sticker disappearing into the distance. It strikes me as repugnantly hypocritical to drive around with such ostentatious declarations of faith, whilst so proactively failing to live by some of the key tenets of that same faith you're advertising.

Although, as general rule, drivers with such stickers have been some of the kindest  on the road. And whilst I find the shear volume and newness the churches round here surprising, I've actually been rather impressed with what they seem to be doing in the community. I'm sure there are some loons, but the vast majority look like solid set ups.


But this is an aside, basically the first 50 odd miles was fairly dull and functional riding, with a few hassles. That changed at Covington, a cool little town built in New Orleans style with a thriving and rather chic town centre. After a awesome lunch I was straight on Tammany Trace bike route. A rail trail it follows the old railroad for 35 miles to just short of the Gulf Coast.

It was the most pleasurable riding to date. For the first time on the whole trip I plugged into my iphone, and to the awesome soundtrack of Paul Simon's Graceland cruised along well maintained tracks, through the pine forests and swamps, unhassled by trucks, debris or noise. I'd recommend the experience with that soundtrack to anyone. Throw in some bangers like You've Got the Dirtee Love by Dizzee at the end of the trail and I was flying by the time I hit the road again as Slidell. And I'd made great time with the wind behind me.


It's one of the big shames of the trip that I can't have a soundtrack more often, but it really doesn't seem wise. Even on the safer roads, it is regularly my hearing that's the key factor in keeping me out of trouble. I just don't fancy getting pummelled by some 18 wheeler, because I was too busy belting out Tina's cover of Proud Mary to hear the truck horn.

Having arrive in Slidell in good time, I decided to push on 30 miles through the swamp and over into the state of Mississippi. It was a interesting little leg. Many of the scattered houses in the swamp are built on 10 to 15 feet high stilts, as much of the land lies under sea level. Whilst I would've taken a picture, those people I met round there seemed decent enough, but I'm pretty sure would not have taken kindly to having their home photographed.

Plus shotgun pellets 

Once in Mississippi I had to stop myself getting excited by road signs. First the welcome sign, then a NASA sign stating I was in a rocket testing area, and finally the sign for White's Bayou, complete with multiple small dents from were someone had clearly let off a shotgun round at the sign, was more than enough. On the final sign given certain aspects of local history, I think it's safe to say the shooting was not a slight on my family or I.

Waveland/Bay St Louis are basically just a huge long strip of rather desolate shops and fast food joints, with a sad air seaside resorts  often have. Whilst I'm excited that I can smell the sea, even though I've not seen it, the weather has taken a turn for the worst, and it's dark, cold and wet outside. For the first time on the trips I've actually put the heating on in my motel room. I've also ordered in a pizza, as there is literally nothing for a mile, bar Wendys. Safe to say I won't be sad to leave tomorrow.


Route - Denham Springs - Hammond - Covington - Mandeville - Slidell - Waveland - Bay St Louis

Breakfast - Cherrios, 2 bagels and an apple at the motel. Bin Laden still a top topic over breakfast - The construction workers were very keen to fill me in and act out the Navy Seals "double tap" approach to killing.
Lunch - Chicken salad sandwich and Iced tea - St John cafe, Covington. Funky little cafe, delicious home made sandwich. All round a good lunch.
Snacks - Cliff bar, Strawberry milkshake, and a small chips at Wendys on arrival (I was exhausted and hungry, too tempting next door).
Supper - Meatzza Feast Dominos Pizza, in the hotel room. Grim little experience.