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Saturday, May 7, 2011

Day 39 - Gold star for Florida

This is going to be a short post, basically because things went my way today. Winds, roads, route, pretty much everything went to plan. I was into the motel well before 17:00, and whilst the countryside around here was not stunning it was still decent riding country. Even the rolling hills didn't seem to hassle me too much today.

Another dross motel
The first advantage of the day was not really of my choosing. I was out on the road just after dawn kind of by accident. Just after 04:00 I was woken by what sounded like another yet domestic in the next door motel room (which unfortunately has happened before). It was only when the banging and crashing started that I realised this was not spousal abuse I was witness to but the other form of domestic activity that involves banging, crashing and screaming.

I have no idea how large the couple were, but from the elephantine love making noises and shudders each time they appeared to be trying to hurl each other through the dry wall into my room, I'd hazard sizable. Thankfully it was all over almost as soon as it started, but by that time I was wide awake and little traumatised. 05:30 came and I just thought sod it, got up, got ready and left.

The key today was the roads. Florida wins the prize as by far and away the most bike friendly state. In fact I'd go as far to say it beats even France as the most bike friendly place I've ever ridden. Having followed bike routes or designated lanes all the way from the Gulf Coast in Alabama, they basically never stopped all day, for another full 90 miles.

Weird tan lines
First Pensacola may be the most cycle friendly city on Earth, bar Amsterdam. Admittedly I was travelling early on a Saturday which is the best time of the week to ride, because no ones' up, but it was still very impressive. Then it was cycle lanes around the scenic bay's edge across the bluffs, and up into the back country off the coast. Whilst the 10 miles on full cycle tracks was nothing on Louisiana, it was the fact that every road all day had a cycle lane that was clear, maintained and properly marked that was so impressive. I know this is probably boring as hell to read, but for me this was a revelation. Rather than 10 miles here or there of peace, it was peaceful all day, with out exception.

Once off the coast, the Florida towns become rapidly more tired and sleepy. Whilst I'm not sure there is much to recommend you leaving the coast in Panhandle to visit these areas, they were perfectly decent farming communities surrounded by pine forests, that made the whole journey smell like a lavatory in a top end hotel. I passed a few cars with English or Scottish flags on, which I guess makes sense given the expat community in Florida.

Not sure they understood why I was waving so manically at them. It's strange why I'm so desperate to talk to them. In 99.9% of cases Americans I've met have been helpful, kind, open, friendly, interested, you name it, if it's positive they've been it. In fact it's a huge jolt when someone's crabby with you, because it's so rare. I guess just after a few weeks I just want a tiny bit of home banter, and to be understood when I ask for water - which is by far and away the word I must have repeated the most. Made me realise our pronunciation "Wor-teh" is actually wrong.

So that's it, I'm locked in my room trying to avoid a female guest who clearly with a serious anxiety problem and keeps wanting to talk to me, right in my person space. I slightly ashamed to admit it, but I've got a little intolerant of such incidents, but after the 35 motel you do get a little tired of always having to talk to local nutter, who always makes a beeline for you because you're dressed differently. I've rather taken to politely smiling and legging it, which to be fair, is what everyone else is doing.

Route - West Pensacola - Penscola downtown - Pace - Milton - Crestview - DeFuniak Springs

Breakfast - Frosties, and 2 bagels at the motel
Snacks - Pizza was all that was on offer in the town at lunch, not feeling like that I just had a pack of chive crisps, a milkshake and a 1/4 of a pack of some revolting pork crisp things, not recommended.
 Supper - Seafood buffet at McLain's Family Steak House, DeFuniak Springs. Was hungry and this was next door, it was delicious. Given it was a buffet I'm not sure I can be bothered to type out all I ate, but there was good reason the customer base was sizable, but when it tastes this good, who the hell's counting.