Right so target number one is complete. There were some hiccups getting here yesterday, but I made it in the end. I've been asked on emails and Skype a few times today how I “feel.” To be truthful I’m not really sure how I feel and what I think of it all just yet. It felt great seeing the sea yesterday no doubt, but beyond that it’s a huge cliche, but it's not really sunk in.
I've still got 1,200 miles to go to New York, and there's not really anyone here to celerbrate with. I mean there is, of course, but just not anyone I know or knows me. It's weird I found myself researching the whole route again last night with the same anxiety as the first night, fretting I wouldn't make it to the Atlantic. That probably makes it sound like I've flipped, but if you fret and worry about something for months vaguely, and weeks intensely, when it actually happens it's hard to compute. One thing is for sure, I've got the bit between my teeth for New York now.As for yesterday it was a fairly functional day. For the most part it was flat solid roads, through the pine forests and small farms of North Florida, on cycle lanes. There were more prisons, more prison working parties and more mustachioed guards to keep me company, but in general it was basic, dull riding.
It was as I got within the Jacksonville city limits (which are vast, I mean deep into the countryside) that it all suddenly got more concerning. First the15 miles on a bike rail trail into the edge of the city proper was supposed to be an ipod-in chill out, but things didn't turn out that way. You can't really see it on the two photos of the trail, but this was midday and the sunlight was sharply dappled through the trees. 3 or 4 miles in I noticed that the light had turned a deep red and, looking up, that the almost cloudless sky was now thick with smoke. I’d heard a cop and the petrol station owner in Lake City talking about forest fires, but I’d not paid much attention. I’ve no idea how close I was, and not sure I want to know, but for 10 miles the air stank, the smoke got on your lungs, helicopters swooped in low and there was a light dusting of ash falling, like the very beginnings of a snow storm. Deep in the woods, alone, it was an unnerving hour.
Out the other end East and Downtown Jacksonville unfortunately broke Florida’s record of quality cycling. There was nothing particularly unpleasant about it, just as I’ve said before, when you don’t know a city it’s never pleasant, and the industrial and commercial doughnuts round cities can make for dull and depressing riding. Downtown was compact and uneventful, although whilst crossing draw bridge over the river, the siren started up, and I was forced to scuttle under the already closed barriers the other side. The rest of the 15 mile ride out to the coast just got more and more decent, better roads, better neighbourhoods, better weather. In a wierd kind of way it feels suddenly feels like LA again. 2,700 miles and the attitude and outlook is finally the same again. Strange.
As the more observant of you will have noticed I did not have my panniers when I got to the coast. Dragging a fully laden bike over soft sand just didn’t appeal. So delaying my excitement I stopped in the Motel first, dropped off my panniers and some items I vainly didn’t want in any pictures. Not that it helped if you check out my rank ankle sock marks.It was then a 1 mile ride to the beach, the ocean and a very big smile. I wandered up and down the beach a bit shellshocked, if I was honest. After all the stress and strain over mountains, through deserts and over swamps, dreaming of this moment, it just kind of happened. Mile upon mile of flat hard white sand, the Atlantic crashing in, and the sun mellowing as dusk closed in. I couldn’t have written it, it felt too perfect to be real, still does.
Today has been a pretty functional day. Laundry, calls home, route planning north and general admin, a large amount of which now relates to post-trip which is strange suddenly. Neptune and Atlantic Beaches are cool civilised little coastal towns. After weeks of small towns and city outskirts, it a cool breezy place, full of cool breezey people. I’ve just luxuriated in the Starbucks smugness of it all. I’ll be glad to be on the bike North and into the back straight tomorrow, but this is a place I could happily stop a while.Route - Lake City - Baldwin - Jacksonville - Neptune Beach
Wednesday 11 May
Breakfast - Bagels, frosties and fruit at the motel
Lunch - Chicken summer salad sub - Subway. It just hits the spot, and it’s on their healthy menu so I’m not complaining
Supper - Bar-B-Q pork platter - Bono’s Bar-B-Q. Worst Bar-B-Q I’ve had, dry, and crumbly. After the walk on the beach it late suddenly, and so I ducked into this place. Bad choice, although the ladies serving where lovely.Thursday 12 May
Breakfast - Same as every day.
Lunch - Calamari and 2 fish tacos, coleslaw and sweet potatoe - Fish Kitchen. Great little spot. Wish I’d found it last night, cheap well cooked fish, and cracking service, all next to some poor old boy in hospital PJs who told me this was his first outing in 2 months. He looked hungry.Supper - Sushi - Bought at Publix, eaten in front of Green Zone in my room.
