Today has been about one thing; finally heading North. There really is not a whole lot to say about the actual riding though; it was just under 95 miles and it went to plan.
Granted it was snooker table flat and there was a light tailwind all day, but it now seems strange how early on anything over 80 miles freaked me out. 95 miles just trundles by now. This is not to say heat in the high 90s and intense humidity was easy riding, just easier.
The first 15 miles was frustrating. For the first time in the trip I had to retrace my steps, to avoid a ferry crossing, and hit a bridge in downtown instead. It’s only the second time there’s been a ferry option (the other being an alternate route to the cycle through downtown Mobile I took).
It’s probably a bit silly, but I really want to ride or walk every single mile, and a 2 mile ferry ride would niggle at me forever. When the detours to avoid them are 20 mile round trip through downtown rush hours, I do slightly question my sanity, but it’s just a decision I’ve made.
In downtown I finally turned off highway 90 and headed straight north up Main street which became highway 17, the new mothership. The last few miles out of Florida were bliss. It really is the best place for long distance cycling in the world.
The change into Georgia was immediate. It’s not that it’s bad here, but the cycling approach is basically bear bones; slimmest shoulder/cycle lanes possible, the odd sign about cyclists on bridges (one of which had been shot at which is not encouraging), and some old rusty bike route signs are all you'd know you're on a designated cross country bike route.
That said the roads are quiet, and bar one idiot in a Budweiser truck everyone gave me a wide berth right up till Brunswick. There’s nothing much to say about the country side, it’s more of the quiet, flat forested land that seems to sit just in from the coast for the whole arch round from Texas. It’s got noticeably poorer since leaving Jacksonville, but it’s strange that the decay just doesn’t look so desperate in the woods for some reason.  |
| Just before being tidied up |
Getting into Brunswick had it’s challenges. I’d not realised how big it is (100k plus), and at 5:30 on a Friday people were not driving well. It’s back into the dull motels, not improved by the seriously mardy lady on the desk, but with two weeks left it seems more manageable. And as I’ve mentioned before, you notice the very rare grumpiness here so much more, because it’s so so rare, when some one’s rude it seems so odd and out of place, it takes you back.
Apart from that the only thing I can think to mention is, the closer I get to the end, the more neurotic I get about every twinge in my knees/legs, and bump or crunch on the bike. Made me realise I’m probably ready to stop cycling now.
Route Neptune Beach - Jacksonville - Waverly - Dock Junction, Brunswick
Breakfast - Standard set up at the motel
Lunch - Fried Green Tomatoes and bacon sandwich, potato salad and strawberry milkshake. Corner Cafe, Kingsland. As has happened time and again, almost didn’t go in because it looked a little ropey (and had a flag waving mannequin outside) but once in, the food was brilliant. Home cooked and seriously tasty, and it all came with a great dose of banter from the waitress who dragged me into the kitchen to meet the other girls and show off my accent....Almost let vanity take hold of me, and think maybe the beard trim yesterday is work.Supper - Yummy Paella type shrimp dish - Cracker Barrel - Top top food. Have a good feeling about Georgia's food. In fact with California, Texas, Louisiana, Florida, here and New York I'll have down a proper culinary tour of the States, and when it's done well the food here is fantastic, and so distinctive to the place. I just wish I had a car to explore more food places. American food is really very good and so distinctive once you get beyond the cliched burgers and fries (although I've had some ripping burgers though).
